Bartimaeus

Shane had the idea to use inter-rail passes and while we discussed each step, and researched places, he did all the actual booking of accommodation and trains to Lille and Grenoble and back to Lille, then London and Edinburgh. I have been to Lille before, but he hadn't, so I had ideas on what he might like there and checked some things we hadn't managed.

Our train trip to London went well. Shane had built in space in the itinerary in case of delays, but there were none and we were very early for the Eurostar, and were told, after snaking through the check-in queue, that our train was not checking in for another hour, so we had time to get in the French mood, finding a French cafe and getting a coffee and pastry....the first of many.

Apart from the machines not managing to read Shane's passport there was a very smooth check in. We got to our accommodation easily, a quirky 'bijou' flat very near the centre. 

We had a fair stroll around the streets before picking a restaurant. With the slight time zone shift we hadn't realised how late it was and we only just got in before they were closing the kitchen. The Bleu Canard managed a speedy serving and had exquisite presentation. Who knew neep and mushroom could look so good! 

We were off to a fine start. Every course was a surprise. The next morning we set off to find breakfast and expected no surprises, but soon found a boulangerie that had chosen an unusual name: The French Bastards!

The thing with our winter holidays in a city is that they are sometimes getting ready for Christmas and the main square where I had admired beautiful buildings all around and a focal point of a high pillar, was now a construction site of chalets and a large wheel.

I spotted the Tourist Information Office and to my amazement it was closed, just for that day, a special notice warned. A building next door I hadn't been in was open: a medieval palace, but little remained after war bombing. Centuries of history and beauty, gone in a flash.

Since most museums were closed on Tuesdays in Lille, and it wasn't raining, we went for a walk to the citadel, which also has a zoo nearby and we glimpsed pink feathers, but another surprise, it was not flamingos but pelicans. The zoo wasn't open either.

Green parakeets screeched overhead. Last time I was here was on a hot summer day, but the tropical birds were adapting to the cold alright. Some filming was happening from the nearby bridge and an artist had placed a poignant pixel tiling on the bridge support.

After the walk, we found the perfect lunch for a cold day, a modern cafe that had a choice of four soups and the bowls were huge. We certainly were filled up there.

I thought we might climb the tower but, again, found a notice of an exceptional closure just for a few days. There are plenty of grand attractive buildings around there to see, the Porte de Paris, The Palais de Beaux Arts, another park and the weather stayed fair for walking.

We finished the day with a meal in a bar that had a menu of local specialities. Shane had the carbonnade flamande, on my recommendation, a Flemish beef stew cooked in beer, which often includes gingerbread. He certainly said it tasted sweet. I felt in a salad mood, despite the rainy weather, and found a local one. I lucked out that I had not read the menu thoroughly as I would have avoided the local cheese renowned for its strong smell, had I seen it was in the salad. It turns out that Salade du Nord includes breaded, melted, maroille cheese, and in that form it didn't smell at all and was delicious and creamy.

The next day we were back to the Gare Lille Europe, via Napoleon's café for breakfast. Not Eurostar this time - off to Grenoble, via Lyon, where we grabbed a speedy lunch,  a short distance from the station. The girl who gallantly rushed over to explain the lunch deals, in English, seemed delighted when I did add a drink and dessert to my chicken and mango sandwich. She was probably happy the communication had worked! I always struggle with the other language when chattered out as fast as the TGV. By the time I have tried to express that I would like it a little slower, they have switched to English and I get no time to brush up on the rusty vocabulary. 

We were soon in Grenoble. We got settled in before dark and were very lucky to enjoy the sunset from our third floor room.