F for Fife

As November approached we started giving some consideration to where we might go for our anniversary.  We’ve been on alphabetic jaunts every year – this time it’s the second turn for the letter F.  The success of our train trip to Eindhoven last year meant we were considering France, Flanders, or even French Flanders.  Starting from Chester would make the train journey pleasantly short.  When other factors brought us to Edinburgh in mid-November we reconsidered.

The Kingdom of Fife is very close as the crow flies, but we rarely visit the East Neuk because transport options are limited.  We started to investigate the various visitor attractions, but quickly discovered that almost all of them are shut in late November.  We’d just have to enjoy the great outdoors.  A forecast short spell of cold but sunny weather coincided with availability at a nice looking hotel at Elie so we made a booking.

I was pleased to have a reason to use the newly re-opened passenger train service to Leven and our bus passes to make the journey.  Check-in wasn’t until after sunset, so we broke our outward journey at a museum in Kirkcaldy.

After breakfast on the first morning we headed east, keeping the cold wind mostly behind us.  We soon found ourselves approaching the lighthouse we’d seen the night before via a crude concrete bridge which is only useful at high tide.

Causeway.  A concrete bridge joins two pieces of higher ground.  A woman is crossing the bridge.  The bridge is only needed when the tide is much higher than it is at this time.  Under the bridge is a long pool, presumably of sea water.  The sky behind is blue and cloudless.
Concrete Causeway

The path afforded almost unbroken views of the sunny coastline.  The Isle of May was a constant partner though it is more than ten miles away.  We got some shelter from the cold wind from the shoreline, but it was mostly behind us when we could feel it at all, and we were both dressed warmly enough.

Isle of May.  The cliffs of the Isle of May rise above the horizon.  There is a bank of clouds in the distance behind the island, but most of the sky is blue and cloudless.  The sea is smooth and a deeper blue than the sky.  A rocky foreshore extends down to the waterline.
Isle of May

We reached St. Monans at a convenient time for an early lunch.  A board directed us to a convenient cafe serving (amongst other things) soup and cheese scones.  Having missed out on a cheese scone with my lunch the previous day, I pounced on them this time.

Refuelled, we continued to Pittenweem.  The harbour had been colonised by eider ducks making their characteristic “oo-ooh oo-ooh” calls.

Eider drakes.  Six male eider ducks are swimming in a harbour.  The striking black and white birds happen to be all swimming in the same direction.  Behind them is the grey harbour wall.  The low sun is reflecting off the ripples in the water.
Eider Drakes in Pittenweem Harbour

The sun was quite low in the sky by the time we reached Anstruther, bathing it in golden light as we approached.

Anstruther.  The late afternoon sun is bathing the village of Anstruther in a golden light.  From across the bay, the village appears as a thin line along the coast.  The calm sea is a muted blue in contrast to the light blue sky above.
Anstruther in Late Afternoon Sun

We walked through Anstruther and looked back towards the setting sun over the harbour.

Sunset.  The sun is setting over the harbour wall at Anstruther.  The harbour wall appears jet black, while the bank of cloud very low down on the horizon is starting to reflect the suns golden colours.  Small waves lap on the shore nearby.
Sunset Over Anstruther Harbour

We explored the harbour area a little more in the spare time we had before the bus arrived.  We were able to watch the sky change colour from the front seats upstairs on the bus on the short journey back to Elie.  The colourful view over the bay from our hotel window was short-lived.

Sunset over Elie and Earlsferry.  The sky is a wash of colour after sunset.  At the horizon it is a deep orange, gradually changing to yellow and then green above.  Small clouds here and there appear black, as do the buildings on the horizon.
After Sunset from Elie Hotel Room