Bartimaeus

I wondered why the canal here was so narrow and twisty, and it is extended for tourism. If it is a tourist destination, it should have some attractions, beyond the aqueduct. We went in to see what Llangollen had to offer, on a wet Tuesday. Before we had reached the bridge over the Dee, Shane was having a look down at a vintage railway. It wasn't open on a Tuesday, but it did run on a Wednesday so we made a mental note to look up the times later.

We meandered through the town and saw a sign to something that looked like it meant "new place" which seemed an odd name for a tourist sight. On arrival it was a house and garden that looked anything but new. It had been named 'New Place' or Plas Newydd in the eighteenth century by two women from Ireland who ran away to Wales and lived there for 50 years. This was a new life and escape from being married off or sent to a nunnery. 

Before getting our tickets I looked in a small hut and found an extraordinary sight of models of a sheep and lamb in felt coverings, patterned like a garden with robins.

It was as well to be prepared for some eccentricity. I could see that the ladies were wanting a new life but they were in some other respects of old fashioned in their tastes. They had the walls decorated with wooden panels from old furniture donated by people who were throwing it out as they were not modern. The ladies went for a Gothic theme.

They had a dining room and library downstairs and bedrooms upstairs and all of it had the dark wood panelling in it. 

Up the panelled stairs their bedroom smelt of roses. The other room across the hall was a guest room and had a curious cupboard to the side called a powder closet. It was for powdering wigs, to give it the desired colour and cover the smell of fat used to mould it. To avoid mess there was a hole in the door to pop your head through while it was powdered.

Up another level and the attic was the quarters for their maid servant, Mary's room. Mary came with them from Ireland. This room was not panelled like the other floors.

The gardens were very pretty with little streams and meandering paths, there were little seats and covered decorated viewpoints.

We left looking for lunch and found a cafe with huge servings and then called in on a free museum. We found the Llangollen ladies story told there too as well as the lives of monks, castle legends and the male voice choir. Shane watched a video about the making of a chain bridge which enthused him further about the train ride that takes you past it. We walked back along the canal and met a brave heron who was intent on looking for his dinner.

Today we headed to the station and found ourselves on sprung seats with slamming doors and windows that open. This meant we could poke our heads out for a better look at stations.

Looking out the window there were rivers, horseshoe falls and fields of lambs so it was a pretty route. Shane decided we could break it at one of the intermediate stations so he could get a closer look.

We enjoyed the view at the stations. It is hard to tell  just looking at this distance if these signs were being delicate to ladies or whether gents were just more important.

On arrival at the last station we had a quick turnaround or 2 hours to fill. We could just wait at the station as there was some history to look at, not as much as I thought there was, though as one of the notices was the same again in Welsh.

The town looked cute from the train, nestled against the hills.  So I wanted to take a look and in any case there were colourful welcoming tiles in the underpass to see.

We went to have a quick look and met the train guard, with paper bags in his hand. He was a man who knew where the bakery was so we took his lead and bought pasties. Outside the bakery I had a quick look at another Welsh hero.

We got back to the station in time and Shane wanted to sit at what had been the front, but was now the back of the train. The engine drivers were at the other end so we got a good look at the controls. 

I wasn't feeling this gave such a good view of the countryside and we changed seats the better to see out the window. It was beginning to rain and when we stopped to get out of the train I was unsure we had made the right choice, with the rain getting heavier. I wasn't sure the hotel was even open. Still we had waterproofs on and set off to see the bridge. Some people were much braver and were kayaking in the turbulent waters. Still if you didn't mind getting wet then it was a sport not spoiled by the rain.

When we went to cross the bridge it was still occupied by the family and it is too narrow the share easily. They had difficulty persuading a boy in full waterproof regalia to leave. He was having a great day out too.

For a bridge lover this was a good looking spot, with views of other bridges from the chain bridge.

Shane was soon enjoying a close view of the chains and remembering the construction details. 

The rain eased off so we had a short scenic riverside walk. We went to see the chapel advertised but it was less scenic surrounded by scaffolding with workers on the roof. The gravestones were of interest. I have been to a graveyard in South Wales but the stones were all in English, but here they were in Welsh only.

We got a drink in the hotel and Shane proposed a walk back to the boat as it was only two miles away and we would probably be back quicker than waiting for the next train. The sun had broken through so I agreed. This was the route the horse drawn boats went.

The sight seeing was not quite finished. We decided to get some shopping and on the way back the bridge was gathering some spectators of those enjoying white water rafting. The boats filled with water, then drained out. We have been on rafts like this in the past but they didn't require wet suits and helmets.