Bartimaeus

We were very happy with our place to stay in Gdansk. There was plenty of comfortable seating and beds. Marion and I tossed for the high up bed. We were both willing to go up the steps, but it had a low ceiling so we thought the shorter people would be best there and Mugs was happy to stay down. Marion won the high bed and we all slept well. We were happy with the cleanliness too but surprised to see the extra lengths some staff were going to. If these ladies break the  glass ceilings, they are going down, not up, but at least they were in harnesses. They looked like ninja cleaners.

We had some ideas for things to see already but we set out in search of a tourist office and bank. We were interested in a tour. Finding the office proved surprisingly hard. It brought us back to where we had arrived at the bus and tram stops by the station. The station looked magnificent, though.

A further search took us past a statue that reminded me of Wellington pointing to the main  post office in Edinburgh (showing my age, it hasn't been a post office for decades). He has a fancy uniform and no traffic cone on his head.

We continued our search and it was perfectly pleasant tourism. We found a bank beside a torture museum so Mugs and I looked at the manacles while Marion wrestled the ATM. Shortly after we made it to back the main old town top tourist spot with Neptune telling us the way, or just waving his trident. 

We found he had sent us to the wrong end of the street and were redirected by a kind woman. There were many tourist offices, hiding in plain sight, but at least we had found one and asked about tours and picked up a map. Then we headed for a bite to eat and had top notch pierogi. All three of us chose them though not all the same filling. We didn't want to eat too much since our evening meal was already booked.

We headed to the Amber Museum which would be closed in the evening. There was extensive information on how amber is created and everything was in Polish and English. There were lots of samples to get close ups of plants and creatures encased in amber. I was amazed by being able to see the spider trapped in the ancient resin and its gossamer thin thread still intact.

It was a pendant in a pendant. The next level up had things created in amber. Videos displayed how amber beads were made in medieval times. Craftsmen had gone way beyond jewellery though there was of course lots of that also on display. This ornamental chest was unbelievable in its intricate carving and variety of shades of amber. The doors open, I wonder if the drawers do too.

A browse in the shop and we were ready to have a little rest and freshen up, before tackling the fish restaurant. I had no worries with my choice. I often choose sea bass, but as it is also available in many places, I chose zander which I haven't seen in a restaurant before. When the sea basses arrived for Mugs and Marion they were whole, head and tails and all, served en papillotte with vegetables underneath, quite a challenge to eat, but they did well and we managed a dessert too. Fish is such a light dish!

We were drawn to the water the next day to the Solidarity centre. The shipyard strike was a historic event of international impact. The 1980s cranes stand proudly as a symbol of political freedom.

A modern centre as well as the story of the strike outside made interesting and moving reading. I was surprised to also find art at the waterfront made from metal, perhaps salvaged from the old shipyard buildings.

Walking back towards town we got the chance to see one of the bridges moving. It was a lot bigger than the lift bridge I operate on the British canals, but isn't for vehicles, strictly pedestrian. Crowds were waiting to cross.

It opens every half hour. We had plenty to see on this side so we didn't cross but explored some colourful street we had missed with some colourful results, which encouraged me to do a shot of our bright, hard working feet.

We found a delightful restaurant where we were treated to tasty free appetisers of Polish spreads and bread by our attentive waiter, who later carefully removed a wasp we had trapped. The main courses were all delicious, modern presentations of traditional dishes. Suitably nourished, we headed to the basilica again to ascend the tower. Over four hundred steps meat those feet and legs were still proving their fitness (or not). Mugs was well ahead - her running and gym sessions were showing. A kind lady seeing me fail at selfying, offered to take pictures.

Again we had an evening appointment, not for food this time but for a piano recital in a different church, St Catherine's, entitled 'Chopin and Friends candlelight concerts'. We waited in eager anticipation.

We were not disappointed. Our entertainer for the evening was a student, Yuchen Hua. What a talented young man! I wish I had been able to see his flying fingers and he delivered breathtaking Chopin pieces and finished with Ravel;all from memory, though sheet music may have been no use in such dim lighting and there were so  many notes!