Bartimaeus

Just as I had seized the carp, as Shane says, (carpe diem) by getting a lift to Dr Neil’s Garden when it was sunny,  Shane had found a blue sky day and decided to use the bus passes for a coastal walk. Shane had been told that a place at the far end of Portobello  prom that looked like a smart restaurant was still okay for a coffee stop too. So turning away from the cluster of eateries,we headed along to the end of the prom, where he believed it was. It was a hazy memory  and he couldn’t remember who had recommended the place. Just as we approached Shane remembered it was a fish/seafood restaurant, appropriate for its setting.

We were seated by a window that looked out to the sea. I chose a king prawn salad and Shane chose a seafood chowder. I don’t know if he expected shellfish in their shell but he coped and enjoyed it. The lip on his plate allowed him to extract the mussel and leave the shell at the side, and there were only three to deal with.

My plate looked at a glance like it might have an oyster or mussel on the side but it was roasted fennel. I expected that but wasn’t sure if my prawns might still be in their shell, but they weren’t I was glad I didn’t have to pull anything from its shell. We were both happy with our choices. Shane experimented with an affogato when I ordered one and has found he likes it too.

The decor was octopus based. I didn’t see octopus on the menu, but octopus are also good at eating shellfish and extracting them from their shells.

We went on with our coastal walk. There was not much wind but what there was, was behind us. It was a calm day by the sea, with only a few dog walkers, being a school day.

We saw oyster catchers on the grass when we left the shore. They weren’t getting any oysters there. They still exhibited sudden quick runs as though avoiding an incoming tide. 

We were on the pavement as we made it to Musselburgh. The saltire does not originate from Musselburgh but it does come from East Lothian. We have left the City of Edinburgh.

Clearly, from the name, mussels were important in the past, and the heritage is magnificently depicted in the mussel shell statue here. The dimpled inside shone bright.

As well as mussel beds, fishing was a major industry. There are plenty of boats even though the fishing has dwindled. Beside the plaque about the history of the fishing and mussel businesses, was a row of boats out of the water and a man in a traditional navy blue cap painting a boat standing on a ladder. It was a good time to get it done and Bartimaeus has recently been out of the water to have the blacking redone.

Fisherrow used to be separated from Musselburgh and had the larger population. The industry isn’t what it was. In the harbour there were more boats. They looked like leisure rather than working boats. It was a tough life but with the men away fishing for months, it said the women had some independent leisure time as they played golf and football. 

Walking past the river Esk we found a group of grazing wigeons and also some in the river. Shane used Merlin to identify from a photo. We didn’t hear their whistling call. They are a handsome duck.

We went as far as Prestonpans and I could see we were near a bus route. Satisfied that we had made the most of the weather, we caught a bus back to Edinburgh. Quite apart from enjoying birds and the water, I think that restaurant deserves another visit. We are grateful to whoever recommended it.