Bartimaeus

On our walk into the village on Saturday, we passed a mural of the canal end. There is a confusing fork and comes just after a junction. We were moored at the very end of the right hand arm, beyond the bridge. The mural depicted a busy working area with horse drawn carts, bicycles, wheeled trolleys and heavily laden barges. 

It was still busy with visitors and boats now but no horses. There were quite a few cyclists coming through, but most people were walking - no passing boats since we were at the very end.

Shane had turned at the wide space to reach the service jetty at the junction then reversed into position. There is a winding space at the fork but having reversed in we won't need to use it. On our first evening in this mooring, another boat arrived in this little arm in error and the driver was stressed to discover the only recourse was to reverse to the winding space to turn around. Shane had called directions to him from the bank. 

In the end we stayed three nights at this quiet spot so when we cast off, the longer term moorers were chatting together and waved to us. "Have you had enough of the scruffy neighbours?" one shouted. No, they had been welcoming and friendly. Another called "where are you off to now?" Shane said we were going to explore the Montgomery Arm, which she said was very nice, while the guy said it was 'like treacle'. It is little used and you have to book to go. It remains to be seen if we will make it all the way.

Another boat moored around there seemed to be empty. We had seen it before at Ellesmere so it had travelled recently but there were no signs of habitation over this weekend We liked the boat name "Stravaiging" and it aptly describes boat life as we have settled into it: roaming, wandering, gadding about or travelling through.

So we were moving on again. There isn't much mooring space as most of the junction is filled with day hires, trip boats and holiday hires. We had to stop before the aqueduct for three narrow boats and a group of canoes. While we waited another boat arrived that also wanted to cross and three paddle boarders got off there boards and waited at the other side. There is a sign up saying paddle boards must not be used standing up, presumably due to the lack of a rail. I thought they might go over kneeling or seated but they didn't go on them at all. They walked on the edge of crowded footway using the paddle on the board to push it along to the other end. They still had to wait for the boats to come off the aqueduct as they floated their boards along and there is no room for anything wider than the canoes to pass each other.

Crossing Pontcysyllte aqueduct with paddle boarders ahead of us, walking

Behind us were a group of novice canoeists with the other narrow boat taking up the rear of our convoy. A few walkers alongside struck up conversation. We could see a canoe waiting at the other end and one pedestrian asked me what we do if we meet. I said they would have to paddle back, as they can't pass and none of us can turn. He wondered how you knew with no lights or system. I said that you just have to look. It is very straight.

It was much brighter and less blowy than last time we crossed in the other direction. I spent a lot of time at the front and enjoying the view, even more than last time. I had talked to the paddle boarders before they set off about the road bridge being also single track.

At the other end, once we had weaved round the waiting boats, it is not long before you reach the lift bridge. The canoeists said they didn't go through that, but turned around just before it. The paddle boarders who were now in their boards, got off before the lift bridge. I got out to wind it up. Two cyclists crossed and then I started to lift it. As I was turning the handle they watched. They asked if I did this every time and it looked tiring. I said yes and letting it down was about as hard, with just as much turning. He seemed surprised at how much I had to do, but then his companion explained that it wasn't for everyone. He seemed to think I was the official bridge winder. So I confirmed every bridge was operated by every boat, unless someone let another through, and they always had to be closed afterwards. There wasn't another in sight behind us today so I wound it down again.

We continued on and went to Chirk aqueduct too and the two tunnels. Everything was familiar in this direction. I noticed artwork from the old machinery now turned into heritage statues. 

I liked these and was glad I already had a picture as two girls were using the stone wagon as a seat, lounging and sipping drinks What a turnaround in function the modern canal is, especially on the holiday weekend when no-one was commuting or going to school. Everyone was relaxing enjoying the sun and having picnics, a long way from the back breaking labour that used to take place here.

When we finally moored we went for a stroll across the fields to the local village and there found a statue to their hard labour industry which continued into the 1960s at Ifton colliery. It was shocking to read the long list of miners who had died. It wasn't a single disaster but a steady trickle, a death, or three, most years. The list is not complete.

We had a quick tour round the village and found the pub about to close so we turned round and head back to have a drink back on board, crossing fields, it couldn't be further from the image of the miners down the pit. Green fields, cows, birds, butterflies and even some paragliders.