Bartimaeus

We worked out that boats would be returning from the weekend hires on Monday morning and then going back out in the afternoon from Trevor on the other side of the aqueduct in the afternoon so the quietest time would be between ten and two. Sure enough there were several hire boats going into Chirk marina in the morning. It was the busiest we had seen it. 

Once the way ahead was clear we set off. It was much cooler but fine for travelling but the forecast showed that rain was not due until later so luckily that matched our planned departure time anyway. First off was the Whitehouse tunnel. Again the sign warned of bats. 

We had seen quite large bats flying in the evening over the water past the boat so it seemed possible but they were well hidden if they were living in the tunnel. 

Like I had experienced in the Chirk Tunnel, Shane found the water just kept wanting to pull him to the left side and he was using the bow thruster frequently to try to keep away from the side. No one was looking impatient at the other end, so that was one less thing to worry about. I was happy that he was driving. 

Having felt unsteady on the aqueduct the other day I was hoping I would manage to enjoy it. I was probably unreasonably apprehensive, rather than excitedly looking forward to what should be the high point of our cruising, literally. I did drive later and as usual as soon as he disappeared a boat appeared on the other side of the bridge ahead beside a bunch of moored boats. Shane thought I was being overcautious to wait behind the moored boats but as the boat was coming quite fast and warned me about a fallen branch in the water when he passed, we were both satisfied that discretion was the better part of valour in this case. In the stark change in the weather (it was a bank holiday after all) it was not long before I had a cold tiller hand and felt I could do with another layer.

Shane handed the tiller back as we approached the lift bridge at Froncysyllte, partly because he fancied operating it, and because he would get a warm up. In the event the bridge was already being opened as I approached for a boat coming the other way and this time I pressed on past a moored boat assuming there would be a boat sized space to wait in while it came through. It worked and then the boat behind me followed through but said they would let it down, so Shane didn't get the chance to wind after all. 

I knew we were near the aqueduct so let Shane take over. We were entertained on the way by passing a water point where two boats were hired by the Cambridge University Brass Band. They had passed us when we were moored in the morning but were now filling up with water and while they were waiting a trumpet and trombone player had got their instruments out and were playing Cwm Rhondda. I know stowage is tight in the hire boats so I asked if they had a tuba in there. One of the crew/band said they did have a tuba player but no tuba. Good choice!

I knew it was possible, just like in the tunnel or bridges that a boat might be coming across and if so we would have to wait but we were surprised to see no bollards on approach. The way ahead was not clear. A group of canoeists was on and being pointy at both ends it was surprisingly hard to tell if they were coming towards us or not. We realised they were and waited. They seemed new to paddling and there were about ten of them. It was hard to paddle straight in the restricted space.

There were no narrow boats behind so we were now free to head over. It looks very narrow in approach.

As the bank of trees gave way to a sports field. we could see the drop on the bathtub edge, which was level with our gunwale. There was enough sun to see the shadow of the arches.

Shane wanted me to hop off to get a photo of the boat coming along. I didn't know how I would feel but right then there were plenty of people already on the walkway and there seemed to be a coach party, so I said I would try once I saw a gap and stepped off and ran ahead of the boat.

I managed to not look down and felt okay but didn't hang around.  There were  more people coming on the walkway and I  got back aboard. Some people were excited to meet a boat and were taking photos of us as well as the view.

The river was coming into view on both sides. From on the boat the bars are in the way to keep pedestrians safe.

On the other side there is no such guard, and there is a clear view down. I wasn't feeling wobbly on the boat either.

Shane wanted to get a look from the walkway so left me driving. There is no wall to scrape against and no steering to do, so now that I knew I wasn't being affected by any vertigo, I was okay about it. Further along there was an unhappy girl who was clearly frightened of the crossing. She didn't want to be by the rail, possibly as she didn't want to look but she wasn't enjoying being so near the water. Her mother tried to encourage her to wave to the boat but she was too preoccupied for that. I understood. The combination of the height, the narrowness and crowds gave plenty of reasons for rising anxiety. After we passed I could hear her sounding more and more panicked. She was too big to be carried. As we got to the end I could see an official walking along and making sure no-one else stepped on the aqueduct clearing the walkway and addressing people waiting to step on he asked that they step back as a distressed child was coming and needed to pass. Her dad had turned back and was leading her off, sobbing. It's not for everyone, but we enjoyed it.

There was more tricky driving ahead and some interesting views too. It wasn't the end to narrow stretches There were sections with a boat sized passing place and long sections that were single file. 

We didn't meet any but the sections were not even straight to see easily to the other end, though the signs said to give way to oncoming boats.

We met some ducklings, a mix of striped and yellow. and I was astounded to count 14 in total with one mum. The concrete sides looks like they would be hard to get out but we saw a side exit.

As we neared Llangollen there was a particularly long section that advised that someone go ahead to check so I ran ahead then went back again to wave Shane on. I checked further ahead, in case I had misjudged 500 metres then rejoined him.

We found electric hook up and went down to the payment section for the mooring. I found they had stables for horse drawn boats and met Sonic. He might not be a hedgehog but he was very prickly. He jumped and was very agitated and tried to bite his handler. He told us Sonic had "sweet itch" which is an allergic reaction to midges and the coat was to help. Bites become raised and inflamed and very itchy, so they rub themselves bare and can get infected. He was obviously very uncomfortable and looked like he was trying to get out of the (bolted) stable door.

Llangollen is the end of the canal and nestled down in the valley so with us all hooked up we can go and explore the town over a couple of days. It was odd to see how much lower the town was than the canal. We are still high up over the Dee Valley.